TRAVEL TIME 4 hours by car
WHY? This postcard-nice town on Lake Skaneateles is the gateway to the Finger Lakes. It has the charm and beauty of that region, closer to home.
MUST DO You'll hardly recognize this as Upstate -- the town is more like a missing Hampton, or a lost bit of New Englandia, with a typically Upstate-casual vibe. (By the way: It's pronounced "Skinny Atlas." You're welcome.) Get the lay of the land by strolling Genesee Street, which runs parallel to the north shore of the lake and acts as the town's main drag. There's plenty of shopping for a town this size, and a lot of worthy hangouts. Pretty much everything in town is either on or near Genesee. John D. Barrow was a painter in the Hudson River School genre; there's an entire gallery dedicated to his work here in town. It's called, but of course, the John D. Barrow Art Gallery. Want to get out on the lake? Rent whatever floats at The Sailboat Shop. Don't feel ready to go out on your own? Arrange a lesson with the Skaneateles Sailing Club. On the western fringes of town, the Mirbeau Inn & Spa is not nearly as world-class as it thinks it is; the resort is at its best when it comes to matters of spa, for which you should definitely slot in some time. The massages are better than the crazy faux-Tuscan -- or is it Provençal? -- décor.
STAY HERE It's all a matter of opinion, so we'll give you ours: The best hotel in town isn't in town at all. The Hobbit Hollow B&B, on peaceful Lake Road just a few minutes' walk from the village, gives you the best of both worlds, and feels a lot like the 180-plus-year-old Upstate farmhouse you never knew you wanted (from $120, [800] 374-3796). If you're not the B&B kind, Skaneateles Suites has three options -- a small hotel at the center of town, a converted motor court (much nicer than you think), apartments and vacation homes (from $175, [315] 685-7568).
HAPPENINGS The big deal around here is the Skaneateles Festival, a four-week chamber music series (August 12-September 5) held both indoors and outdoors. Friday nights in July and August, the Skaneateles Community Band does concerts at the gazebo down on the lake -- just look for the crowds.
HOT TIP "Touristy" in Central New York means something entirely different than it might elsewhere; still, if you want to get away from the action for an evening, drive three miles north of town to Joelle's French Bistro, one of the best restaurants in the area. Do not be tempted by an ill-advised sushi menu -- stick with the classics (4423 State Street Rd., [315] 685-0345).
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